View Full Version : Multi plate clutches

10-09-2006, 11:48 AM
Can someone explain these to me please? I am thinking of scrapping the flywheel and standard clutch in my car for a steel low inertia flywheel and small clutch. Is it just a case of getting a piece of steel machined to fit my crank and the new clutch?

What is the advantage of running several plates? Just better heat dissipation and that? Do the plates lock against each other, or does another plate go between the 2 friction plates?

Uncle Benz
10-09-2006, 01:54 PM
How are you going to start the engine? Multi plate clutches are really for race use and will be quite unpleasant in traffic. You will still need a ring gear for your starter to operate on. Do you really need to step up from an organic clutch plate? What torque output are you expecting? Paddle clutches are pretty vile for the road and I would only consider one if you have no choice. Go with something like a Helix and get a lightened flywheel, or if you have the funds look into an aluminium one.

10-09-2006, 02:24 PM
Was speaking to Longmans about mapping my ecu (which I'm in the process of fitting!) and they mentioned most people run a smaller, lightweight clutch. The ring gear from the standard flywheel just presses on, so could still use that. Just the guy I spoke to said that the cast iron flywheel shouldn't be used to too higher revs... I'm only running 8k but would'nt like to see what an exploding flywheel looks like!

I am trailering the car places now too, as I am going to race it next season, so driveability isn't an issue! It's currently running a helix ceramettalic paddle plate with the standard cover plate....

11-09-2006, 06:33 AM

If you arenít expecting more than 250 BHP then I would strongly suggest just getting the original flywheel lighten and balanced and then fitting a std pug sport (group n) AP racing paddle clutch but be aware that the ceramic clutch will wear the flywheel face after a while so if you plan on racing the car long term (or using it a bit on the road, not sure if this is your plan?) then it might be worth getting a couple of flywheels machined? (will work out cheaper in the long run). Also this option is relatively cheep, proven and easy to maintain with parts off the self from various sources. As far as I am aware the STD clutch will take 220BHP without issues so the above option should be fine for 8K and your current engine spec and save a few quid.
I have a contact at AP so if you go down this route let me know and I will pass on his details (should get the best price)

Just my 2 penny worth ;)